# Biochromes October 15th, 2019 Cecilia Raspanti The textile industry is one of the most polluting in the world, in which one the most environmentally disastrous processes is the dyeing of fibers and textiles of the clothes we wear. Chemicals are released daily in rivers and nature destroying the environment around us to satisfy the colour demands that we create as designers, industry and consumers. Very few options are being explored in this fast changing fashion, clothing and textile industry, and the list of chemical treatments is only expanding. This class will focus on exploring colouring alternatives to the current ones. Bridging craftsmanship techniques and technology, to explore alternative colour sources and their processing. Ranging from plant based, insect base and bacteria based pigments. NOTES - colors present in nature - symbol of life/full of symbolism/meaning differs greatly across cultures * mapping colors as a challenge >>> START TO THINK ABOUT HOW TO DO THIS ## sources organic: plant animal organism inorganic: mineral ink, dye: soluble in water and into the material pigment: not soluble in water, onto the material ## ink composition vehicle, binder and additive - water/ethanol/oil/gel: ink/marker ink/printer ink arabic gum salt/vinegar/metals look at slides!!! ## process combine dye stuff and vehicle boil/stir preserve/thicken/modify DOCUMENT PROCESS IS VERY IMPORTANT dye stuff: name, origin, date (try to find the latin names too!!!) (different origins and batches can have very different outputs, state as well) (oxidation: cannot be stopped, embrace it) recipe: quantities, time, vehicle, binder, stabilizer, modifier, thickener catalogue: by material, by color (broad or deep research) examples: raw color jason logan - experiment!!! also with documentation methods, blotches, strips (schematically, archive for yourself), blocks, illustrations, whatever - try it out on different materials, papers, fabrics etc. - use proper containers for the dyes so you can preserve them - measure pH with a pH strip or cabbage (google) - embrace water differences in taps, compare it constantly, locality is very valuable!!! ## natural colors tend to have multiple shades within one color, incredible depths/richness (so not like pantone, extremely standardized) ## what are dyes? types of dyes natural to synthetic dyes: 1 synthetic dye changed the way of dyeing everything (accidentally) historically: nobody was thinking about the consequences > poisonous inks (based on arsenic, paris green; based on radium for almost fluorescent greens; white lead etc) not all natural dyes are safe so do your research ## ! how have your garments been dyed? ! WATER POLLUTION BY DYES IS WAY OVERBOARD so many chemicals, especially because of the bleach, kills nature - greenpeace toxic-free future alternatives for materials chlorine and metal based colors past: natural dyes current: synthetic dyes future: bacterial dyes? FIBERS animal fibers: protein based vegetable fibers: cellulose based PROCESS: look at presentation for tutorials prepare fibers mordants: enhance fastening process of the dye onto organic fibers modifiers: to change shades (acidic, alkaline, copper and iron modifiers) consider the environment around you kitchen: beets, tumeric, cabbage, avocado, onions etc soda: not bicarbonate!!! have whitening properties allergies: use alum not the others washing: depends on the dye, can still fade (but can also be nice) wash with cold water helps soy milk mordanting: soy bean powder/soy beans, activating the enzymes by rehydrating; enzymes are transferred to the fabric, then immediatly dye (earth dyes) ## Bacterials dyes offers an opportunity for THE FUTURE AND NOW Janthinobacterium lividum: feeds on CO2, antimicrobial properties biosafety levels!! researching what bacteria produce what kind of shades patterns created by bacteria are really interesting bioshades.bio INFORM YOURSELF, COMMUNICATION BETWEEN SCIENCE AND ARTISTS/DESIGNERS/FASHION DESIGNERS >>> mutual literacy patents that are not used>hijacked booklets online ## collaborating with bacteria >>> bacteria as designers!!!! examples: natsay audray victoria geaney: glow in the dark bacterial dye pili karin fleck ## assignment: https://class.textile-academy.org/classes/week04/ # credit the scientists, collaborate, don't steal their shine